Once in an internet blog post, I came across a comment which questioned: " What is this building, who knows it? So beautiful!... " On a photo it was a facade of Párizsi Udvar (Paris Arcade). I told myself then that I am going to tell everything I know about this building and I promised in my answer to that blog post commenter, that I will bring new pictures it (That time, I was planning to visit Budapest). (photos: Natasha)
I have always like this building, right from the very first incident! And I remembered my each and every meeting with it, so far, there were already three times:).
For the first time, we were with friends and we simply wandered to Budapest. Suddenly, someone amongst us lifted his head - and was stunned that instant... We (as if we were bewitched) examined these strange people who sticked out of the walls on a background of the twilight sky... And it seemed to me that they were staring at us with curiosity... :)
What is it? How? Why? Why aren’t there any guidebook to highlight to us about it?!.... Later, in my favourite book written by András Török called "Budapest. A Critical Guide ", I found some information on this astonishing building.
It was constructed in the beginning of the 20th century by an architect named Henrik Schmal, under the order of a savings bank which rented the entire ground floor. Now, this is an apartment-house with a small shop that settled down in a passage. By the way, many people usually do not surmise about the existence of this passage, since they are being limited to the survey of a strange facade with an enchanting carved roof. The entrance to passage is hidden from strangely incurious eyes by a lattice draw down a little, but it is necessary to slip inside...
I've sat down with crossed legs directly on the stonepainting (on the floor) and seated there for a while with lifted head, lingering on each moment while my eyes were examining all around... In the twilight, the walls came alive. The arch of the windows, the stained-glass dome was directly over me. From ornaments of a mosaic, to a wooden groove... I became so enchanted once again... This enchantment was not once but also during our second meeting at the Párizsi Udvar, it did not reveal all its secrets to me!:)
It happened only later in the same year - during my third visit. My dearest Alla:) has led me there. I tried to photograph this twilight’s beauty again and again, but all photographs of it did not turn out right! I got angry. Suddenly, Alla told me that we had come to a passage not for this stuff. What for then?… and why?? Unless there is something else?!
Yes, we've made the way inside! Maybe we have broken some rules, I don't know, but I do not repent and I do not regret!!:)
...... An unreal combination of the refined luxury and poverty. Magnificent shining stained-glass windows, which are dropping out from itself, decayed through the window frames directly on stones of an internal courtyard.... Finely moulded openwork graceful staircases, as in a fairy tale, like the castle of the princesses - with the peeled off plaster.... The elegant greater column in the middle of the staircase, what was its original purpose? We were guessing for a while, yet we have not had a glance inside, through the broken stained-glass window....
It seemed time ago, there was a lift, but now only pipes of communications remain. And a roof.!!!!!... This fantastic, grandiose, fabulous roof, right here only within an arm’s reach... Right at this point, I can see all its towers... even now, I have no words to describe it. I'm speechless with the true beauty of Párizsi Udvar! At that moment, all my thoughts, words and desires - had totally ran up in all different ways..... Ooh….! What a beautiful dome - here it is!! Here! I stood beside it, completely near to it!....:)))
We've slipped under a lattice and found ourselves in the evening street... I left there with deep thoughts. I was totally filled up to the edge with pleasure from what I have seen. However, to me, I felt a deep sense of sorrow for that disappearing beauty which I am about to leave...
These two feelings still are living in me whenewer I recall about Párizsi Udvar.
(special thank to Galya and Zannnie for the English edition!):)
